by E. Grant Gilligan

• Explains woolen, worsted, and woven processes
• Describes yarn twisting, numbering, and testing
• Provides explanations and answers to technical and practical problems in the development, design, and manufacture of woven fabrics
• Features numerous worked examples of formulas and calculations

Written by a highly skilled and experienced woven fabric designer, Woollen and Worsted Woven Fabric Design provides answers to many of the technical and practical problems encountered in the development and design of woolen and worsted woven fabrics. The author addresses weaving processes, yarn counts, fabric weights, and design elements. In addition, formulae and calculations used in the weaving industry are clearly set out with numerous worked examples.

Intended for everyone connected with the woolen and worsted weaving industry, especially those with limited industrial experience, this book is essential for new designers, technicians, quality controllers, and students within this sector of fabric design.

Contents

1. Woollen and Worsted Weaving Yarns
   • Introduction
   • Woollen and Worsted Systems
   • The Woollen Process
   • The Worsted Process
   • Micron Suitability for Woollen Apparel End Use
   • Number of Fibres in Yarn Cross-section
   • Twist in Single and Folded Worsted Yarns
   • Direct Yarn Numbering System
   • Calculate Direct Count From a Given Length and Weight of Yarn
   • Convert Direct (Tex) to Direct (Denier)
   • Convert Direct (Tex) to Indirect
   • Calculate Average Yarn Counts in the Indirect System
   • Yarn Twist Calculations
   • Yarn Testing

2. Woven Fabric Construction
   • Introduction
   • Relationship between Yarn Count and Thickness
   • Relationship between Frequency of Interlacings and Density of Fabric
   • Diameter Reciprocal, Weave Value and Percentage Reduction below Maximum Setting
   • Ashenhurst's Cloth Setting Formula
   • Angle of Curvature Theory
   • Law's Cloth Setting Formulae
   • Different Fabric Weights, Densities and In-loom Particulars Using Woollen Yarns
   • Suggested In-loom Making Particulars for Menswear Worsted Fabrics
   • Changing Cloth Weights and Settings
   • Similar Cloths Formulae
   • How to Calculate Warp and Weft Weights for Piece and Sample Length Production
   • Influences on Both Weight and Dimensional Changes in Woven Fabrics
   • Finished Cloth Analysis
   • How to Calculate In-loom Particulars from Finished State
   • How to Determine Finished Fabric Weight in Grammes per Linear Metre at Standard Finished Width

3. Woven Fabric Design
   • Introduction
   • The Weaving Process
   • Basic Weaves
   • Simple Warp and Weft Colour Effects
   • Drafting and Pegging (English System)
   • Sleying (or Denting)

4. Design and Fabric Development
   • Introduction
   • The Role of the Woven Fabric Designer
   • Section Blanket Making
   • Section Blanket Design and Colour Layouts
   • Common Warps
   • Common Drafts

Index

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